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FOCUS-Skin whitening creams remain online despite mercury findings

FOCUS-Skin whitening creams remain online despite mercury findings

儘管發現汞,聚焦皮膚美白霜仍然保持在線狀態
路透社 ·  2020/07/11 15:15

By Martinne Geller
   LONDON, July 10 (Reuters) - Skin-whitening creams identified as containing potentially dangerous levels of mercury continue to be sold online more than seven months after a watchdog group raised the alarm, including on platforms run by eBay , Amazon.com and Alibaba , a Reuters review of the sites shows.
   The findings come at a time when skin lightening, a multi-billion dollar industry especially popular in Asia, Africa and the Caribbean, is under renewed criticism for promoting light skin as a beauty ideal.
   Many countries ban or restrict mercury in creams, which can damage the kidneys, brain and nervous system. An international ban on manufacturing products with mercury in them comes into effect at end-2020.
   The Zero Mercury Working Group (ZMWG), an international coalition of non-governmental organizations, issued a report last November that found unacceptable levels of mercury in 95 skin-lightening creams out of 158 samples tested.
   The tests looked for concentrations of mercury above 1 part per million, the level set in a 2017 global treaty, and found levels ranging from 1.9 to 131,000 ppm.
   Reuters didn't independently confirm the levels of mercury found in the brands cited by ZMWG.
   The samples were sold under more than 20 brand names, mostly by smaller manufacturers in developing countries that had been flagged by governments or in previous testing.
   Major global brands from the likes of Unilever   , L'Oreal and Procter & Gamble were not flagged and were not included.
   ZMWG bought more than two-thirds of the creams online, including on Flipkart, majority-owned by Walmart ; South Africa's Bidorbuy; Nigeria's Jumia ; and Lazada and Daraz, which are both part of the Alibaba Group and operate in Southeast and South Asia, respectively, as well as on Amazon and eBay, the coalition said.
   One month after its report came out, ZMWG said that eBay, Lazada and Daraz had pledged to remove its high-mercury product listings but had not done so, while Amazon removed products from its U.S. and EU platforms, but not in India.
   Reuters checks in late June showed at least 19 listings of the products on different country sites run by all seven e-commerce platforms, however.
   After Reuters raised the issue, the platforms scrapped most of the specific listings or promised to do so. But as of July 10, brands cited by ZMWG continued to pop up, including on Daraz, Amazon, and eBay.
   Goree Cosmetics in Pakistan and Bangkok-based Smilephan, two companies whose name brand products were available on several sites and showed high mercury levels, told Reuters they do not use mercury and warned about counterfeits.
   Smilephan shared with Reuters an ingredient list, test reports from 2019 and 2011 showing no mercury in samples, and copies of certifications it said attest to regular audits.
   "We strongly believe those are not our original products," said Songkiat Kulwuthivilas, Smilephan's assistant managing director. The company no longer sells its Pop Popular brand in Africa because of the excess of counterfeits, he said.
   EBay said it would sweep its sites to remove listings and update surveillance filters imposed in December that had already blocked 250 listings.
   "We comply with local restrictions and also we have a long history of partnering with rights owners, industry groups and law enforcement," eBay spokeswoman Ashley Settle said.
   Daraz told Reuters it would to take "necessary action" if the listings were found to violate its policies or harm customers.
   An Amazon spokeswoman in India said the company was investigating, but that on its 'marketplace,' responsibility rests solely with the seller.
   A California judge in 2019 ruled that Amazon was immune from liability for third-party sellers in a case involving warnings about mercury in skin-lightening creams.
   "Most people buying on Amazon have no idea that Amazon isn't anything like walking down to your grocery store," said food safety lawyer Bill Marler.

(Reporting by Martinne Geller in London; Additional reporting
by Siddharth Cavale in Bengaluru, Alexis Akwagyiram in Lagos,
Ayenat Mersie in Nairobi and Promit Mukherjee in Johannesburg
Editing by Sonya Hepinstall)
((martinne.geller@thomsonreuters.com; +44 (0) 2075420797;
Reuters Messaging: martinne.geller.reuters.com@reuters.net)

由馬丁·蓋勒
倫敦,7 月 10 日(路透社)-路透社對這些網站的評論顯示,包括在 eBay、Amazon.com 和阿里巴巴運營的平台上繼續在網上銷售超過七個月後,被識別為含有潛在危險水平的皮膚美白霜在網上銷售。
這些研究結果是在美白皮膚的時候,這是一個價值數十億美元的產業,在亞洲,非洲和加勒比地區尤其受到新的批評,以促進輕皮膚作為美容理想。
許多國家禁止或限制面霜中的汞,這可能會損害腎臟,大腦和神經系統。國際禁止生產含汞的產品於 2020 年底生效。
零水銀工作組(ZMWG)是國際非政府組織聯盟,去年 11 月發布了一份報告,在 158 個樣本中,發現 95 個皮膚美白霜中的汞含量不可接受。
這些測試查找的汞濃度超過百萬 1 的一部分,2017 年全球條約中設定的水平,並發現水平範圍從 1.9 到 131,000 ppm 不等。
路透社並沒有獨立確認 ZMWG 引用的品牌中發現的汞含量。
這些樣品以 20 多個品牌名稱出售,主要由發展中國家的小型製造商出售,這些製造商已被政府或以前的測試中標記。
來自聯合利華,歐萊雅和寶潔公司和賭博等的主要全球品牌沒有被標記,並且不包括在內。
ZMWG 在線購買了超過三分之二的面霜,包括沃爾瑪擁有的 Flipkart 上;南非的比多買;尼日利亞的 Jumia;以及 Lazada 和 Daraz,這兩者都是阿里巴巴集團的一部分,分別在東南亞和南亞以及亞馬遜和 eBay 上運營。
報告發布一個月後,ZMWG 表示,eBay,Lazada 和 Daraz 已承諾刪除其高汞產品列表,但沒有這樣做,而亞馬遜從其美國和歐盟平台上刪除了產品,但不在印度。
然而,路透社在 6 月下旬的檢查顯示,在所有七個電子商務平台運營的不同國家/地區網站上至少有 19 個產品列表。
在路透社提出這個問題之後,平台報廢了大部分具體列表或承諾這樣做。但截至 7 月 10 日,ZMWG 引用的品牌繼續彈出,包括達拉斯,亞馬遜和易趣。
巴基斯坦的戈里化妝品和位於曼谷的 Smilephan,這兩家公司的名牌產品在多個網站上有售,並顯示出高水銀水平,他們告訴路透社他們不使用汞,並警告假冒品。
Smilephan 與路透社分享了一份成分清單,2019 年和 2011 年的 test 報告顯示樣本中沒有汞,以及證明證明了定期審核的認證副本。
「我們堅信這些不是我們的原始產品,」斯美芬的助理董事總經理宋家說。他說,由於過量的假冒品,該公司不再在非洲銷售其 Pop Popular 品牌。
eBay 表示,它將掃描其網站以刪除列表並更新 12 月強加的監視過濾器已經阻止了 250 個房源。
eBay 發言人 Ashley Settle 表示:「我們遵守當地的限制,而且與版權擁有者、產業團體和執法機關合作有著悠久的歷史。
Daraz 告訴路透社,如果發現列表違反其政策或傷害客戶,將採取「必要的行動」。
印度的亞馬遜女發言人表示,該公司正在調查,但在其「市場」上,責任完全由賣方承擔。
加利福尼亞州的一名法官在 2019 年裁定,亞馬遜免於對第三方賣家的責任,涉及關於皮膚美白霜中的汞的警告。
食品安全律師比爾·馬勒(Bill Marler)說:「大多數在亞馬遜上購買的人都不知道亞馬遜並不像走到雜貨店那樣。

(由馬丁妮·蓋勒在倫敦的報告; 其他報告
班加羅爾的西德哈斯·卡維爾,拉各斯的亞歷克西斯·阿克瓦吉拉姆,
阿耶納特·梅西在奈洛比和約翰內斯堡的普羅米特穆克吉
由索尼婭·赫安裝編輯)
(martinne.geller@thomsonreuters.com;(0) 2075420797;
路透社訊息服務:martinne.geller.reuters.com@reuters.net)

譯文內容由第三人軟體翻譯。


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