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Patchy demand at stores spells more pain for garment suppliers

Patchy demand at stores spells more pain for garment suppliers

商店需求參差不齊給服裝供應商帶來更多痛苦
路透社 ·  2020/07/06 19:00

By Sonya Dowsett and Ruma Paul
   MADRID/DHAKA, July 6 (Reuters) - Fashion brands and retailers re-opening around the world to patchy demand, and carrying unsold stock from spring have cut fall orders by as much as two-thirds in moves spelling more pain for Asian suppliers.
   With shoppers still wary of catching the coronavirus at stores, retailers are leaving buying decisions to the last minute and planning on selling all-season basics such as men's chinos and t-shirts leftover from spring through into fall.
   "We don't think orders for clothing will pick up anytime soon. Shipments could look up ahead of the Christmas but there is no guarantee," said Siddiqur Rahman, a Bangladeshi garment supplier to H&M and GAP Inc among others.
   The destructive weight of the COVID-19 pandemic is expected to contract the $2.5 trillion global fashion industry by up to 30% in 2020, according to investment bank Bryan, Garnier & Co.
   Nike said it has already cancelled around 30% of its pre-pandemic factory orders for the autumn and end-of-year holiday season, while Sweden's H&M said it would sell some "less seasonal" spring stock through into autumn.
   Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein owner PVH said last month it was being very cautious on buying for fall as it reported a drop in same-store sales of around a quarter for re-opened stores in North America.
   Ralph Lauren said it had cancelled around two-thirds of autumn season orders, while Levi Strauss & Co has said it would carry some unsold basic garments forward.
   Stores have opened in most of the United States and Europe, and while lines formed outside some, many consumers are staying at home, with almost 60% in the United States surveyed by Coresight Research on June 24 saying they were avoiding malls.
   A Morgan Stanley survey found that 57% of British consumers planned to stay away from clothing stores for fear of catching the coronavirus. The surge in online sales during the lockdown is not enough to compensate for the slump in traffic.
   Cancelled orders result in less work for factories across Asia where hundreds of thousands of garment workers have been laid off since the pandemic struck.
   New orders are down by as much as 45% on the year, said Rubana Huq, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, and factories in the world's second-largest garment maker are operating at around half their capacity in the country.
   With consumers wary of returning to stores, retailers are holding out to the last moment to put in orders with suppliers as they try to gauge demand at a time when traditional back-to-school spending plans are up in the air.
   "We need to wait as long as we can with purchases - to take the decisions as near the sales moment as possible," H&M Chief Executive Helena Helmersson told Reuters, after the retailer reported its first quarterly loss in decades last month.
   Recruiters for garment companies in Vietnam, a major manufacturer for big sportswear labels such as Nike and Adidas  , are feeling the pain.
   One recruitment consultant, Will Tran, told Reuters that he and his colleague had just two or two orders in April and May between them, compared with the usual up to ten each.
   "So 80 to 90% of job demand went poof," he said. 
  
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FACTBOX-Fashion brands cut orders with Asian garment makers

'All my dreams are shattered': coronavirus crushes Asia’s
garment industry
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(Additional reporting by Nivedita Balu in Bengaluru and Anna
Ringstrom in Sweden; Writing by Sonya Dowsett; Editing by Louise
Heavens)
((sonya.dowsett@thomsonreuters.com; + 34 91 585 8328; Reuters
Messaging: sonya.dowsett.thomsonreuters.com@reuters.net)

作者:索尼婭·道塞特(Sonya Dowsett)和魯馬·保羅路透馬德里/達卡7月6日電-時尚品牌和零售商在全球重新開業,需求參差不齊,春季未售出的庫存已將秋季訂單減少多達三分之二,此舉給亞洲供應商帶來了更多痛苦.由於購物者仍對在商店感染冠狀病毒保持警惕,零售商將購買決定留到了最後一刻,並計劃銷售從春季到秋季的男式斜紋斜紋棉布褲子和t恤等全季基本服裝。H&M和GAP Inc等公司的孟加拉服裝供應商Siddiqur Rahman表示:“我們認為服裝訂單不會很快回升.聖誕節前出貨量可能會上升,但這不能保證.”據投資銀行布萊恩·加尼耶公司(Bryan,Garnier&Co.)稱,到2020年,新冠肺炎疫情的破壞力預計將使價值2.5萬億美元的全球時尚業萎縮至多30%。耐克(Nike)表示,它已經取消了秋季和年終假日季大流行前工廠訂單的約30%,而瑞典的H&M表示,將在秋季銷售一些“季節性較弱”的春季庫存。湯米·希爾費格(Tommy Hilfiger)和卡爾文·克萊恩(Calvin Klein)的所有者PVH上月表示,該公司對秋季購買非常謹慎,因為該公司報告稱,北美重新開業的門店的同店銷售額下降了約四分之一。拉爾夫·勞倫(Ralph Lauren)表示,已取消約三分之二的秋季訂單,而李維斯·斯特勞斯公司(Levi Strauss&Co)則表示,將繼續銷售一些未售出的基本服裝。美國和歐洲的大部分地區都已經開張了商店,雖然一些人在外面排起了長隊,但許多消費者都呆在家裏,CoreSight Research在6月24日進行的一項調查顯示,近60%的美國人表示他們正在避開購物中心。摩根士丹利的一項調查發現,由於擔心感染冠狀病毒,57%的英國消費者計劃遠離服裝店。封鎖期間網上銷售的激增不足以彌補流量的下滑。取消的訂單導致亞洲各地工廠的工作減少,自疫情爆發以來,亞洲已有數十萬服裝工人下崗。孟加拉國服裝製造商和出口商協會主席魯巴納·胡克(Rubana Huq)説,新訂單同比下降了45%,世界第二大服裝製造商的工廠在該國的產能約為一半。由於消費者對重返商店持謹慎態度,零售商在傳統返校支出計劃懸而未決的情況下,試圖衡量需求,直到最後一刻才向供應商下單。H&M首席執行官海倫娜·赫爾默森(Helena Helmersson)告訴路透社,在該零售商上月公佈數十年來首次季度虧損後,我們需要在購買方面儘可能長時間地等待-以儘可能接近銷售時刻做出決定。越南服裝公司的招聘人員感受到了痛苦。越南是耐克(Nike)和阿迪達斯(Adidas)等大型運動服裝品牌的主要製造商。招聘顧問威爾·陳(Will Tran)告訴路透社(Reuters),他和他的同事在4月和5月總共只有兩到兩個訂單,而通常每人最多有十個訂單。“所以80%到90%的工作需求都消失了,”他説。/>FACTBOX-時尚品牌削減與亞洲服裝製造商的訂單“我所有的夢想都破滅了”:冠狀病毒摧毀了亞洲服裝業 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^>(Nivedita Balu在孟加拉國和安娜補充報道瑞典的Ringstrom;Sonya Dowsett編寫;Louise編輯天)(sonya.dowsett@thomsonreurs.com;+34 91 585 8328;路透社消息:sonya.dowsett.thomsonreurs.com@reurs.net)

譯文內容由第三人軟體翻譯。


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