Nestled in a 22.7-acre valley surrounded by 260-million-year-old Paleozoic limestone hills, lush rainforests, rejuvenating geothermal hot springs, natural caves, and cascading waterfalls, there lies a hidden gem up north. This may sound like a scene straight out of The Lord of the Rings or Fantasy Island, but it's all very real. Just a short distance off the North-South Highway near Ipoh, The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat stands as Malaysia's—and indeed Southeast Asia's—first luxury spa resort that boasts natural hot springs and a world-class dining experience within a million-year-old cave.

The resort is a spectacle of natural beauty, offering breathtaking vistas of mountainsides draped in verdant greenery, turquoise hot spring pools, and a captivating atmosphere that feels almost mystical. There's no other location in the country where such natural wonders coexist so harmoniously.

Recently, BusinessToday had the pleasure of being invited for a brief escape from the urban grind to experience a half-day retreat at this stunning resort—an offer we couldn't resist. While the idea of soaking in the warm, mineral-rich pools after a two-hour drive was enticing, the real highlight was the opportunity to indulge in the new menu crafted by Chef Lee Choon Boon.

Unlike any other resort or luxury hotel, The Banjaran offers one of the most sensory dining experiences imaginable. Hidden deep within a cave, Jeff's Cellar is a five-star dining venue that marries modern sophistication with an enchanting, natural setting. The engineers from the Sunway Group have ingeniously installed the furnishings and kitchen within the cave without altering its ancient geological formations, preserving the cave's historic beauty.

After a refreshing dip in the hot springs, we had certainly worked up an appetite worthy of such a unique dining adventure—pun intended.

A Menu Fit for Royalty

Stepping into Jeff's Cellar is a surreal experience. The narrow walkway leads to a spacious dining area, which resembles a vast cavern adorned with stalagmites and stalactites. The attention to detail is impeccable, from the fine cutlery and elegant tablecloths to the luxurious furnishings. It's the epitome of a five-star restaurant—classy yet cozy.

Diners are presented with a choice of pre-set menus, allowing for a curated culinary journey. Fortunately for us, there were two of us, so we each opted for one of the available menus.

The menus, aptly named Prélude and Whimsical, are masterpieces crafted by Chef Lee Choon Boon and his talented team. These newly revamped 10-course menus celebrate authentic Malaysian ingredients while also incorporating the finest international flavors.

The Prélude menu draws inspiration from Sunway Group's Founder & Chairman, Tan Sri Sir Dr. Jeffrey Cheah AO's favorite dishes. The experience begins with Apéro, featuring a daily selection of sweet fermented treats, Champagne sabayon, and a guineafowl tart. This is followed by the Diver Scallop, a perfectly seared scallop topped with local Amur caviar and drizzled with fragrant herb oil, creating a sublime blend of oceanic and herbal notes.

Chef Boon's highlighted dishes include the Grilled Canadian Lobster, accompanied by fresh cress, edible flowers, and a rich lobster reduction, as well as the melt-in-the-mouth Miyazaki A5 Wagyu Beef, enhanced with maitake mushrooms, pomme purée, and jus de viande. Each course is a delightful bite-sized portion packed with flavor, and we must caution diners that this culinary journey takes three hours to complete—an experience to savor leisurely, with plenty of time for conversation between courses.

The Whimsical menu, on the other hand, offers a contrasting adventure ideal for those who seek new inspirations in their culinary pursuits. This gastronomic odyssey features diverse Asian ingredients, organic local delicacies, and a creative fusion of Western cooking techniques that reimagine familiar flavors in exciting ways.

A standout dish is Beans, a medley of locally-sourced ingredients including smooth tofu gelato accompanied by bean curd shards, Ipoh peanut crumbs, beansprout, soybean mousse, lemongrass bavarois, and a dusting of ginger powder, evoking the flavors of taufufa, Ipoh's famous tofu pudding dessert. Other notable dishes include Termite Mushroom, Lamb, and Consommé.

The termite mushroom is generously shaved with seasonal truffle and grilled with a soy glaze until tender. The lamb is grilled using premium Japanese Binchotan charcoal, known for its odorless properties and consistent heat, ensuring the meat is cooked evenly while retaining moisture and achieving a perfect texture. The consommé, slowly simmered with guineafowl and garnished with edible flowers, transports diners back to cherished memories of home-cooked soup that warms the heart.

Both menus were nothing short of extraordinary, and the wine selection paired seamlessly with each dish, enhancing the overall dining experience.

Although our stay was brief, we managed to complete the entire course, including a dessert that deserves its own review. Both the Prélude and Whimsical menus are priced at MYR 725 nett per person for visiting diners. Jeff's Cellar is open daily from 18:00 to 23:00 hrs, with a 48-hour advance reservation required to secure a spot in this unique dining adventure.