Research and supply networks

Shiseido visualizes the distribution of useful ingredients that have penetrated into the skin with cell-level resolution to accelerate functionality and safety

~ Acquire information such as penetration routes of cosmetics and quasi-drug ingredients and delivery status to target cells and apply it to prescription design ~

Shiseido has developed a revolutionary analytical technology that can observe the distribution of cosmetics and quasi-drug ingredients that have penetrated into the skin with cell-level resolution through joint research with Toray Research Center Co., Ltd. By combining ultra-high resolution elemental imaging technology (nanoSIMS) owned by Toray Research Center Co., Ltd. with human skin observation technology, which our company has strengths, it is now possible to clearly visualize components that have penetrated into the skin. This technology makes it possible to acquire valuable information that could not be obtained until now, such as penetration routes of cosmetics and quasi-drug ingredients in the stratum corneum and delivery status to target cells, and the development of products with higher functionality and safety is accelerated.
Some of the results of this research were presented at the “33rd International Federation of Cosmetic Engineers (IFSCC) *1 Barcelona Conference (2023/9/4-7)”. (Figure 1).
*1: IFSCC: The International Federation of Cosmetic Chemists

Figure 1 Observation example using this analytical technique: how useful components penetrate the stratum corneum, cell membrane, and cell nucleus

Download Small Image [193KB] Download Large Image [395KB]

The importance of evaluating the degree of penetration of cosmetics and quasi-drug ingredients into the skin and how to evaluate it

Evaluating the degree of penetration of useful ingredients used in cosmetics and quasi-drugs into the skin greatly contributes to the acceleration of product development that combines functionality and safety. The degree of penetration of cosmetics and quasi-drug ingredients has been carried out using a method of extracting ingredients directly from the skin after application to the skin and measuring the amount with LC/MS*2, and mass spectrometry imaging technology that visualizes component distribution within skin tissue. However, conventional mass spectrometry imaging technology does not have a resolution that can visualize component distribution in an extremely small space at the cell level, and it is technically difficult to grasp in detail the osmosis pathways in the stratum corneum and component delivery to target cells that we want to know the most. This time, we aimed to develop imaging technology with higher resolution, with a view to acquiring detailed information such as penetration routes of cosmetics and quasi-drug ingredients and their delivery status to target cells, and applying it to prescription designs that take functionality and safety into consideration.
*2 Analytical techniques performed by combining high performance liquid chromatography (LC) and mass spectrometry (MS)

Technology for visualizing the state of penetration and distribution of useful components with cell-level resolution

In this study, we focused on ultra-high resolution elemental imaging technology (nanoSIMS) (Figure 2), which is mainly used for trace impurity analysis etc. in industrial materials such as semiconductors. Through 3 years of joint research with Toray Research Center Co., Ltd., Shiseido has established an analytical technology*3 that closely observes human skin with nanoSIMS, and has succeeded in visualizing the state of penetration of useful ingredients into the skin with a resolution of the nanometer*4 order where organelles such as nuclei can be observed (Figure 1).
*3 Some patents have been applied for for the proposed analytical technology: Patent Application No. 2023-142220
※4 10-9m

Figure 2. NanoSIMS device used in this analysis technology (nanoSims 50L, made by Cameca, France) (using shared facilities at the University of Tokyo Material Advanced Research Infrastructure)

Download Small Image [65.6KB]

Future prospects

With the spread of aesthetic medicine, etc., the level of functionality and safety that consumers are looking for in cosmetics and quasi-drugs is increasing day by day. By utilizing the analytical technology we have developed this time, we will advance product development that exceeds consumer expectations and has higher functionality and safety.
About the R&D strategy:
Under “Skin Beauty INNOVATION,” which is one of the three pillars of the R&D strategy, we have advanced skin measurement/evaluation methods and analysis techniques for useful ingredients on the surface and inside of the skin in order to elucidate the cause and solution development of “unchanging skin problems” that customers have been suffering from for many years, such as blood vessels, lymphatic vessels, immunity, nerves, etc. I'm letting you do it.
・2022 Integrated Report (Beauty Innovation)
https://corp.shiseido.com/report/jp/2022/value_creation/innovation/
・Keywords
Skin Beauty INNOVATION, analytical technology, penetration

*Please note that the information described in this release is current at the time of publication and may differ from the latest information.